However, if your skin is acne-prone, SAP is your form of Vitamin C and it's a must-try. ![]() Overall, we think SAP is a goody! In terms of anti-aging, it's probably not as effective as pure Ascorbic Acid, but it's totally worth a try. Another popular choice is the Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum, and all of these contain vitamin C in the form of SAP. One of the best-selling (vitamin C) serums in Sephora is the Ole Henriksen Truth Serum, while on Amazon it's the OzNaturals Vitamin C 20 Serum. With this combination treatment, the improvement was 29.28% after 4 weeks and 63.10% after 8 weeks of application.Īside from research studies, anecdotal evidence also supports SAP being a promising vitamin C derivative. A nice double-blind study from 2009 showed that 5% SAP reduced the inflammatory lesions by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively and when combined with 0.2% retinol the results were even better. In fact, the results were comparable or even slightly better than with 5% benzoyl peroxide.Īnd there is even more regarding SAP and acne. ![]() acnes and it also showed in vivo (on real people) that 5% SAP can strongly improve the inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of acne vulgaris. A 2005 study showed in vitro (in test tubes) that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial activity on evil acne causing P. As for skin-brightening, there is a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that SAP can fade brown spots.Īnother thing SAP might be able to do is to help with acne. SAP might also aid collagen boosting in-vitro (made in the lab) data shows that it works, but is less effective than another vitamin C derivative, called MAP (that seems to be as effective as pure AA). We have better news regarding the three magic abilities of vitamin C: there is in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that SAP does have photo-protective (aka antioxidant) properties, though less than pure AA. Regarding conversion to AA, there seems to be no data about it, so we can neither deny nor confirm it. Unfortunately, it seems to be limited, or to quote a great article from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "topically applied ascorbyl phosphate salts are, at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison with AA". ![]() The challenge with it though is skin penetration. SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side. However, if you use a product that you like and it also contains RP, there is no reason to throw it away. We would add especially during the day!īottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient ( retinol or tretinoin is!). Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". Baumann's conclusion: " sufficient evidence to establish a causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced. We think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle, and we agree with Dr. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here. Wang, MD, director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre.ĭr. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead by Steven Q. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatology book writes that RP is topically ineffective. The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. ![]() Retinyl palmitate -> retinol - > retinaldehyde -> all-trans-retinoic acidĪs we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer ,Īcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer ,Īmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP CopolymerĪcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
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